What's actually failing
Compression faucets use rubber washers that flatten and harden. Cartridge, ball, and ceramic-disc faucets rely on O-rings and seats that wear or get scored by mineral grit. In hard water — which is what we have — scale accelerates all of it, and the aerator clogs at the same time, which is why flow drops as the drip starts.
What you can reasonably fix yourself
With the supply shut off and the drain plugged so screws don't disappear:
- Unscrew and soak a clogged aerator in vinegar to restore flow.
- Replace a worn washer or O-ring on a compression faucet.
- Swap a matched replacement cartridge on a single-handle faucet.
- Tighten a loose packing nut on a spout that drips at the handle.
When to stop and call
Water appearing under the sink rather than at the spout, corrosion on the valve body, a shutoff that won't close, or a leak that returns after you've replaced the obvious parts. Those point at the valve seat, the supply connections, or pressure that's too high — and a stuck shutoff you force can turn a drip into a flood.
Water pressure above roughly 80 psi shortens the life of every seal in the house. If you're replacing faucet parts more than once every few years, have the static pressure checked before buying another cartridge.
Prevention that works
Don't over-tighten handles — the seal does the work, not force. Clean aerators once or twice a year. Wipe fixtures dry to slow scale on the finish. And if you're going to be away for weeks, close the main supply; a slow drip with no one home is how ceilings come down.
Drip you can't chase down? Call 954-445-6443 and we'll fix it properly.
Call 954-445-6443