What a proper installation involves
Water off, tank drained, supply disconnected, old unit removed, and then the important step: inspecting the flange. If the closet flange is cracked or sitting below finished floor level, a new wax ring alone will not seal it. We repair or shim the flange, set a fresh seal, level the bowl, and hand-tighten the closet bolts so porcelain doesn't crack.
After setting, the toilet gets tested through several full flush cycles while we watch the base and the supply connection for movement or seepage. A toilet that rocks even slightly will break its seal eventually.
Signs you should replace rather than repair
Some symptoms point past a parts fix.
- A hairline crack anywhere in the tank or bowl — porcelain cracks spread.
- Repeated clogs in a low-performing older 3.5-gallon unit.
- Rocking, or staining and soft flooring at the base from a long-term leak.
- You're already remodeling and the fixture is dated.
- You want comfort height, or a WaterSense model to cut water use.
What a running toilet actually costs
A flapper that doesn't seat can pass a surprising volume of water — enough to add noticeably to a monthly bill without ever leaving a visible puddle. If you hear the tank refill on its own, or the bowl surface ripples between uses, the fix is usually a cheap flapper or fill valve and worth doing immediately.
Choosing the right toilet
Measure the rough-in — the distance from the wall to the center of the closet bolts, typically 12 inches. Comfort-height bowls (17-19 inches to the rim) are easier on knees and backs. WaterSense models use 1.28 gallons or less per flush; modern designs perform well at that volume, which was not true of the first generation of low-flow toilets.
Ready for a new toilet, or dealing with one that keeps running? Call 954-445-6443.
Call 954-445-6443